EV Conversion Costs Explained

Ever seen a classic Mustang humming down the street, and thought, “Wait a second, it’s humming?!” You’re not alone—and most of the time that first question is quickly followed up with a second, “How much did that cost?” 

You’re about to find out how much it might cost to bring your own classic car to the point where it can compete. If you’re intrigued—or maybe a bit intimidated—by the unknown price tag, you’re in the right spot. Below, we’ll break down the EV conversion cost from real parts to labor, referencing the details straight from our own shops and network. Let’s go through the numbers together so you can decide if it’s a viable route for you, your wallet, and your ride.

EV Conversion Cost

EV Conversion Kit Price Ranges & Options

Converting starts with a core kit—motor, controller, charger, battery, and a battery management system (BMS). Kits can range from budget commuter sets to high-powered performance bundles, typically costing $14,000–$17,000 for a standard kit (with a 120V–144V motor delivering ~120hp and a range of 50–130 miles for vehicles under 3,000 lbs.), not including your donor car or the battery itself. 

It’s worth noting that kit quality and performance specs vary widely. A commuter-friendly kit might cost less but come with modest range and acceleration. We have four kits available here, while a more performance-oriented kit pushes the envelope—and your wallet—further.

The Battery: Often the Biggest Cost

Battery technology has improved dramatically—prices have dropped by about a third over the past four years because of that, and they’ll likely keep dropping. Reusing repurposed battery modules is where costs can really shrink for EV conversions. That said, packs range from $3,000 (for smaller or repurposed ones) to $50,000+ (for large, high-performance packs). Bigger battery = more range, more power, and more money on the invoice.

Types of Battery Chemistries

1. Lead-Acid: Cheaper but heavy and shorter-lived.

2. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4): Costlier than lead-acid but lightweight, safer chemistry, and good lifespan.

3. Lithium-Ion: Often found in modern electric cars, offering strong performance and range with a higher price tag.

A good rule of thumb: Pick the setup that matches your real-world habits—otherwise, you’re just burning money on unnecessary capacity. If you only drive 20 miles per day, you likely don’t need a 100 kWh battery pack.

Labor & Installation For EV Conversion Kits

If you’re handy with wiring diagrams, you can tackle much of this yourself and save on labor. Otherwise, factor in $20,000–$45,000 or more if you want something unique. Obviously, the more you spend on the kit, the less you’ll typically spend on installing it—and some drop-in kits can be installed in less than a week (some say 3 days!). Keep in mind that high-voltage components aren’t something you want to guess on if you’re new to this. A professional shop offers peace of mind, but that assurance comes at a cost. 

If you want a sense of how the costs stack up overall, here’s a rough breakdown of where we might be at this stage of the kit-based approach:

Incentives & Rebates

Thankfully, some states and the federal government offer programs that help reduce your net conversion costs. It’s possible to score up to $7,500 in tax credits or rebates on eligible electric vehicles (though conversions may or may not qualify depending on local rules). Also check for smaller incentives—like reduced registration fees or utility rebates that can chip away at your final bill.

Double-check your state’s policies, though. Some states even impose extra fees for EVs, offsetting the usual breaks. It’s a bit of a patchwork, so a little research goes a long way.

Pre-Configured Systems vs. Custom Kits

If you’d rather skip the guesswork of sourcing each part or troubleshooting potential mismatches, consider a pre-configured system. They start around $33,000 (e.g., our Fiat 500 drop-in kit) but can climb to $75,000 (e.g., the eGT913 EV System – Porsche 911|912 from 1966–1989). Convenience and brand support come at a premium.

Pre-configured systems are ideal if you want the best possible assurance that everything clicks right out of the box. They also typically come with dedicated support channels, which can save countless hours (and nerves) during installation and calibration.

EV Conversion Profile Examples

If you’re still trying to picture the nuts and bolts of EV conversion cost, let’s consider a few hypothetical builds to show how different choices add up. These examples aren’t exact quotes but should help you see how each component drives the bottom line.

1. Basic City Commuter

1. Driver Profile: Short daily trips (under 80 miles round-trip), mostly urban driving.

2. Kit: Standard commuter package (smaller Li-ion or repurposed battery pack) totals $13,681–$18,935, typically around 15–20 kWh and moderate torque — for vehicles under 3,000 lbs, aiming 50–130 miles range (i.e., the low-range Hyper 9 21.2 kWh kit). 

3. Labor: Starts at $25,000 if you’re going pro install. 

4. Total Estimate: $13,681–$18,935 for the kit alone (no labor, but with support/warranty). Add labor, and you might land at $40,000+.

Why It Works: You don’t need triple-digit range for city errands, so a modest battery plus a simpler kit keeps things affordable. It’s a direct path to gas-free long-term savings without breaking the bank upfront.

2. Midrange Family Crossover

1. Driver Profile: Suburban runs, occasional highway trips, aiming for ~100 miles of range.

2. Kit + Battery: For a heavier vehicle, you’ll want a more robust system with higher voltage. The best kit you can get for the price is our Tesla Swap Package: it’s all the parts you need (including a Tesla motor and 85 kWh battery pack) plus unlimited tech support and personalized assistance—professionals keeping track of your specific car, build progress, and even fielding your late-night calls. The package also includes a Vero BMS V2 for real-time battery monitoring, ensuring your cells stay healthy and balanced. For a setup like this, you’re looking at about $25,000–$35,000, although final costs can shift depending on performance goals and your final choice of kit.

3. Labor: $40,000–$60,000 if you need front/rear/four-wheel drive or additional complexity. 

4. Total Estimate: $65,000–$85,000+

Why It Works: If you need to cart the family around on weekends or run errands without constant recharging, a mid-tier setup strikes a balance. It might be pricier, but you get a comfortable daily driver.

3. High-Performance Build

1. Driver Profile: Enthusiast seeking track-day capability or show-stopping torque.

2. Kit: Performance kit (anywhere from $49,190–$67,990), like the Revolt Systems setups, typically includes an 85 kWh (or larger) battery pack for serious juice. Think insane torque and extended range for this range.

3. Labor: $40,000–$100,000 if you want a custom, top-of-the-line approach—particularly if you’re chasing big torque, complex builds, special cooling, or custom fabrication.

4. Total Estimate: $90,000–$140,000+

Why It Works: You’re paying for thrills—hence the advanced hardware. Bigger battery, professional craftsmanship. This approach suits drivers who want to turn heads at a car meet or demolish the 0–60 bracket.

4. All-In-One Preconfigured System

1. Driver Profile: Wants fun, not fuss. Has a premium budget, and a desire for professional backing from day one.

2. Preconfigured System: $33,000–$75,000 depending on the donor car.

3. Labor: ~$7,000–$10,000 if it’s truly drop-in. Assume it’ll take between three days and two weeks of work at the rate of around $100-200 per hour.

4. Total Estimate: $40k–$100k

Why It Works: You pay extra for convenience and brand confidence. This route often gives you the strongest support channels, fewer technical headaches, and a system built to function in harmony out of the box—fully protected by manufacturer warranties, including configuration and programming.

The Point: Your final number always depends on your vehicle, performance goals, and how much legwork you’re willing (or able) to do yourself. If you only need a bare-bones commuter setup, you can stay on the lower end near $18–$20k total. If you’re craving more range or power, you’ll watch the invoice climb. The key is matching your real driving needs and budget to the right components—and knowing there’s an option for almost every scenario in between.

Final Thoughts

Converting a car to electric isn’t as simple as dropping in a battery and calling it a day—but it can feel pretty damn close to that if you’re willing to flatten your wallet a little. At the end of the day, it’s a methodical process that can cost anywhere from $13,681 to well over $100,000 once you add any optional upgrades. But the payoff can be huge: you keep your beloved ride on the road, skip the gas station, and drive with satisfaction and peace of mind.

When making your calculations, balance costs with your must-haves. If you want a raw, stripped-down EV for city commutes, you can stay on the lower end. If you dream of unstoppable range and next-level performance, prepare your bank account. Either way, the result is a one-of-a-kind vehicle that’s undeniably your own—and that’s something you can’t just buy off a dealership lot.